The refrigerator is not cooling, and the compressor ‘buzzes’ after turning on the battery for a few seconds. What's the matter?
A few days ago, I received a call from a customer asking for repairs, saying that her refrigerator had suddenly stopped cooling in the past two days. The light bulb in the plug-in fresh-keeping room was on, and no movement was heard. After receiving the call, I decided to visit the client's house first. When I went to the customer's house, I saw that the refrigerator was not plugged in. Open the back cover, re-plug the power to test the machine, the refrigerator buzzes for about three seconds, and only listens for a click, the overload protector is turned off, the refrigerator does not start, and overload protection appears. So cut off the power and remove the starter and overload protector. After five minutes of temperature drop, the measured protector is good and the starter is damaged. Shaking the starter by hand, you can hear the thermistor fragments inside. Replaced with a new starter, waited two or three minutes to plug in and test the machine, and then heard the "buzzing" twice and then the protection tripped again with a "click". The compressor of this machine is R600a type, and a running capacitor is connected in parallel with the starter. Measuring the capacitance of 2.78UF (normal value 3UF) seems to be no big problem. So tell the user that the compressor is broken or the pipeline is blocked and need to be repaired in the store, and then pulled back to the store with the user's consent. After putting it in the store for a few hours, I plugged it in again to test the machine, and the compressor actually started up, and I heard the normal sound of the refrigerator running, and I put the thermometer in to keep it working. After a few hours, I checked the thermometer, the freezer compartment is -12 degrees, and the refrigerator compartment is 8 degrees. Everything is normal! What is the matter with this? Was it that the compressor was instantly jammed and pulled back once it vibrated? Or is it because the pipeline is clogged and the micro-leakage appears to be blocked by ice for a long time and then cleared? Or is the micro-dirt block cleared again? It's not easy to draw conclusions for a while. After another two days, the temperature of the refrigerator compartment reached 3.9 degrees, and the temperature of the freezer compartment was -18.5 degrees, which was still normal! It can shut down normally. The measured running current is 0.55A, which is slightly larger than the marked rated current 0.5A, which is normal. It seems that this fault may be: 1. The micro-leakage of the system has entered a very small amount of water, and the pipeline is blocked by micro-ice or micro-dirt, which will cause the protector to trip. 2. The capacity of the operating capacitor is slightly reduced, which makes the reactive current of the circuit slightly increase. In view of the fact that this kind of micro-fault does not have the most fundamental impact on the normal refrigeration of the refrigerator, it is decided not to repair it temporarily, and it will be handed over to the user to continue using it for a while. Called the customer two days later, the refrigerator is normal! For the time being, I have to do this to see the aftereffects! Well, share it here today! If everyone has good comments or suggestions, Welcome to leave a message! see you later!
